Wednesday, 29 June 2016

First Contact

Wow, so this week has really got everything in motion!

After emailing Natasha, my JET-coordination contact at the prefectural level, to confirm I had received my placement details I found out that my predecessor (the outgoing JET who I am replacing and who would normally be the source of all wisdom and information about my particular placement) broke contract and is not around any more! Worse than that, he left on bad terms with his school and his fellow JETS! Potentially this is not a good situation to be walking into as it can leave the school with a very bad taste in their mouths about having an ALT. Apparently my predecessor's reason for leaving was personal though, not anything to do with the school, so I'm hopeful that it wasn't the result of the school being a pressure-cooker workplace. That said, I am expecting my school to be a tough place to work that demands a high level of achievement from both staff and students...any place designated a "super" anything school is bound to be like that right? Happily the person who usually puts the most pressure on me is me (I'm one of those people that sees in my mind what I set out to achieve, what I actually achieved...and the great gaping hole in between!), so at least I already know I'm my own worst enemy! I'll just have to keep an eye on myself while I'm in Japan and remember to mentally take a step back on occasion. I'm confident I'll be alright as long as I can keep the irrational perfectionist side of myself under control...or at least give it a productive outlet somewhere so that it can feel like it's achieving something even if everything else is going to hell in a hay basket.

All this aside, everything else I've received has been really positive information. Earlier this week I got an email from my school principal (kocho-sensei)). Fortunately the email was in English, and rather good English at that, so at a purely communicative level I am hopeful of being able to exchange necessary and required information with my school colleagues. Kocho-sensei introduced himself and his school, and shared some of the history and aspects of both the school and Joetsu City. He was keen to reassure me "not to worry about my life in Joetsu" and that my students would be gentle and diligent, though shy. On this note he shared his eagerness for his students to become more engaged and excited by English, and his hope that they will become comfortable with presenting their work in English.Cue my reply, asking for advice on anything and everything he can suggest that I can bring or prepare in advance that the students would find interesting and would help spark their enthusiasm for English. He promptly wrote back requesting photos, posters and other materials we can put up in the school halls so that students get to see and be stimulated everyday, and has also asked for high-school level science textbooks (I immediately put out a plea to my teacher friends on Facebook about where I might source some of these second hand; I can't take many in my luggage allowance, but one each of biology, chemistry and physics that I can take and make photocopies from should be doable).

Upside-down world map...a new perspective, no?
Curiously Kocho-sensei also requested an upside down world map, saying he first encountered one
while on an English language course in Sydney and found it fascinating. I've never seen one myself, but having now googled I can see why! It completely changes you're perspective on the world and I have determined to take one with me as I'm sure it will get the students to take a second look at Japan and its place within the rest of the world. (The advantage of getting one in NZ rather than the more common American ones is that NZ and Japan are in the middle of the map and not squished out to one side!).

Kocho-sensei also forwarded my email to two of the nine Japanese Teachers of English (JTEs...yeah, I know....between that and JET you wouldn't want to be dyslexic!) at the school so that they might contact me directly if they too had any further requests or suggestions. I hope to hear back from them. I'm getting really excited now about putting some teaching materials together. I so hope the students are excited by what I come up with!

Finally, this week I also got in touch with the people who organise the Niigata JET charity musical. This year's show (actually performed in January, but rehearsed this year) is going to be Dracula! Auditions are on the 14th of August which doesn't give me much time to settle in or prepare the required two performance pieces. Happily I don't really care what I do though, and the musical is such that anyone who wants to be involved gets involved, so I'm sure they'll be able to find a place for me somewhere.

2017 Niigata JET Charity Musical...auditions coming soon!

So much to look forward to!

I'm going to Joetsu!

So the other day I recieved a very official-looking document in the mail whose envelope was plastered with Japanese: it contained my contract and notification of my placement at a senior high school in Joetsu, Niigata Prefecture, Japan. Hooray! I have a destination!!

I soon was not only hooraying but getting steadily more excited as everything I found out about the city and the school convinced me that I have landed what for me must be the closest thing to a perfect placement.

Joetsu is a small coastal city of c. 200,000 people, set within Niigata Prefecture which has over 25% of its land area devoted to National Parks. The area is famous for mountains (and skiing), some of the best cherry blossom viewing in Japan, and sake (rice wine). The Takada district of Joetsu lies inland and is the histroical heart of the town. It is home to the restored Takada Castle, which lies within the lily-pond and cherry-tree flanked surrounds of Takada Park, just down the road from my school!

Check out this promotional video for Joetsu:

The school itself is a "Super Science School", meaning they have two streams of students, one doing the general course, and one doing a science-focused course. I found an English flier about the school online which also lists the school clubs...among the usual assortment of sports and cultural subjects (including an English club) they have a Geoscience Club. Gee, I wonder why I got sent to this school...

My school

All in all it looks like a fantastic place and I'm am REALLY looking forward to settling in there and getting involved with the school and the community, and taking in the nature trails!

Oh yeah, and every year the Niigata JETs put on a charity musical...is this place me or what?!

Wellington Q&A Session

As with any big trip a lot of things line up like dominoes, both official and unofficial, that need to be done prior to departure. The first of the official requirements was to attend a compulsory 2-day Q&A session about the JET Programme. These were held in Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch; Christchurch is closer but as I put Wellington as my departure point on my application I attended the Wellington one.

Turns out I had an appointment in Christchurch anyway, so after a bus ride, appointment, night in a B&B, walking to Christchurch Airport (yes, I like walking everywhere now if there's time--plus it saves money!!)  and jumping on a plane I found myself in Wellington--specifically Porirua, staying with my old school friend Kyla (and her crazy dog and adorable new kitten--I'm in love!).

View from the Majestic Centre
So, on the afternoon of June 10th I made my way to the Majestic Centre on Willis St and rode the lift to the 25th floor where the JET seminars would be held. I was surprised to find I was really nervous, like, job interview nervous, and had to keep reminding myself that I'd already got the job and that today I was just here to learn about how to do the job. I blame the clothes. On the first day we had to where formal business attire and I'm a geologist...I only have to wear formal business attire at interviews, when I'm meeting clients or am about to give a conference presentation. Consequently I seem to have Pavlov Doggified myself and now every time I don suit jacket and heels I break into a nervous sweat. I'm going to have to get over this in the next month or so, but I don't really want to have to wander round the house in my suit in order to do it!

Anyway, back at the seminar I walked into a room that would gradually fill with just over 30 other new JETs (one guy forgot that it was formal business dress, but being a local he was able to duck home during the break and change). We all sat down and listened intently as first Director Fujimoto welcomed us then Melissa (NZ JET coordinator and indispensable go-to person for all of our numerous queries) took us through a general introduction. Two women from the IRD gave a presentation on our tax obligations while working in Japan and told us that contrary to all information otherwise, we would not qualify to be non-tax residents while there. Consequently we will need to pay tax in Japan AND New Zealand...at this point I raised my hand and failed to keep a certain angry incredulity from my voice when I asked if they meant what it sounded like: that we would have to pay tax in Japan (around 18%) AND in New Zealand (17.5% based on our contracted income and the current exchange rate). Were they saying we'd be obligated to pay nearly 40% of our income in tax?! Happily the answer was no; we have to pay tax in Japan, and then any difference between that (converted to NZ currency) to the NZ IRD. Under this system and at the current exchange rates, the 0.5% difference between Japanese and NZ tax rates means we might actually be entitled to a refund from the IRD! Seems a bit silly, but who am I to turn down money from the government? (Funnily enough, all the JETs who have since got in touch with IRD to update their situations have been told that they will be non-tax residents, and so all of the stuff we were told in the presentation doesn't apply. Come on IRD, sort yourselves out!). The rest of the presentation was about student loan repayment obligations. Fortunately I had the foresight with my first job to pay my loan off as quickly as possible and was able to switch off during this bit (and instead quietly boggled about IRD policy being such that they'll give out refunds for money not earned in NZ...).

After the IRD there was a presentation from a representative of the Nipon Travel Agency who are handling all of our travel arrangement to Japan. We're all going as one massive group booking so we can't change anything or book additional luggage etc. Fine by me. I need to learn how to pack light! (although let's be honest, my track record isn't good...)

After a break, during which time two of the other JETs and I went to get hot chocolate at the library, Ms Fuke (Fuke-sensei) took us through an introduction to Japanese language. She was careful to highlight the differences between English and Japanese pronunciation and grammar so the classes served dual purpose as teaching basic Japanese to those who don't know any (like me) and teaching everyone about the difficulties they are going to encounter when teaching English to their Japanese students. Fuke-sensei's ('sensei' meaning 'teacher') style was vibrant and engaging, so watching her teach us was also a lesson in how to engage a room full of people and appeal to range of different learning levels. Her sessions were absolutely invaluable and were my favourite part of the weekend seminar.

After another short break we had a Q&A session with past JETs, where we could ask them anything and everything about life in Japan.

At 7pm we called it a night and all headed down the street en masse to invade Waggamama for dinner. There I met up with Josie, past JET and school friend who was the inspiration for getting myself into all of this in the first place. I sat with her and a bunch of other past JETs and listened to them tell me all about their experiences in the programme. I also shared some of my life experiences and approaches to different situations and was reassured when they were all very positive about my prospects for 'fitting in', or rather coping well with life in Japan. It remains to be seen whether or not I will prove to be a good teacher. I don't expect to be very good at first, but I'm old enough now to have confidence in my ability to pick things up as I go along, and am determined to do as much as I can in advance to be prepared when I get to Japan. At the time of the seminar I hadn't yet found out what school I'll be going to, only that I will be in Niigata Prefecture. Not knowing what age group you will be teaching makes it hard to prepare teachings materials beyond listing a few general ideas...

The next day was a full day session and mercifully only casual dress was required. We soon discovered this was because we would be sitting on the floor doing activities and playing games etc., both to learn more Japanese and get a feel for the sorts of activities we can give our students to do to learn English. It was a full day of condensed Japanese lessons, beginning with essential phrases and etiquette, then going on to cover dates, times, numbers and currency, as well as basic question and answer conversations involving school-related objects and situations. After lunch the past JETs returned to give individual presentations about key aspects of being a JET: what our housing might be like (although the range in type and quality is enormous depending on where you get placed), how to give a self-introduction lesson to your classes, what to expect from the supermarkets, useful activities for teaching classes and etiquette, particularly how to make a good impression and get on well with our colleagues. The past JETs were all very friendly and informative and are happy for us to get in touch with them throughout our time in Japan if we need guidance or advice (which I'm sure we will). One of them, Nathalie, I've met before as she is also a friend of Josie's. We've become fast friends and together with Kyla the four of us planned to go out for coffee the next day.

While there wasn't a session on this in particular, there was a strong emphasis throughout the entire weekend on building and maintaining a good support network. This is obviously something we are all going to need once we are catapulted out of the familiar comfort of a New Zealand city office and scattered across the unique geographical and cultural landscapes of Japan. I feel confident that with people like Josie and Nathalie, as well as my fellow incoming JETs that I'll be ok...(famous last words...watch this space for a mental meltdown post at some point in the future!).

The final two things that we had to do while at the Q&A session were to nominate two speakers to give a short speech at a Farewell Dinner being held for us at the Japanese Ambassador's house the night before we leave, and to choose a song for us all to sing as an item at the dinner. Well, this went pretty much as you might expect with a bunch of rookie JETs who are mostly recent graduates. Only four songs were suggested (two of them by me), and only three people volunteered to give the speech, two boys and, after seeing that no girls had volunteered and that one was required, me. Being the only girl volunteer I was of course landed with the speech (I figure it will be good practice, and besides, if I screw it up I'm leaving the country the next morning, what's anyone going to do?), but one of my two song suggestions was also chosen: Tenei Matou, a Maori action song I learned back when I was in intermediate. I felt immediately responsible for ensuring that everyone does at least a half-decent job of this--Maori waiata after all need to be treated with an appropriate degree of respect--so have resolved to make a demonstration video everyone can use to learn it. I don't really like the idea of making a video of myself, but there is no one else and as they say, duty calls. I'll confess part of me is looking forward to the whole filming and editing part. I'm sure I'll be sick of it before I'm half way through, but I do get a sense of satisfaction out of cutting clips together into one coherent piece, and I haven't done it for a very long time.

Anyway, that was the JET Q&A session. There are more Japanese lessons being run out of the Embassy during the weeks leading up to our departure. I'd had a half-baked idea of moving up to Wellington to attend them, but as the time comes for uprooting myself and heading overseas once again I find myself wanting to stay home and make the most of it while I can. It will also afford a good opportunity to put together some more photos, videos and other materials I can use to help engage my students when teaching them about where I am from. Failing that, I'll have something to paw over in a dark corner of my squalid little big city Japanese apartment when the homesickness all gets a bit too much! Not that I have any idea where I am going or how I'll be living yet, but I'm envisioning this in order to be prepared for the worst. Housing seems to be a bit of a contentious issue for JETs--some get really nice places and some get really horrible ones. I just keep telling people that with my first job I moved into a house that had no insulation, mould climbing the windows and walls and floorboards so rotten I fell through one one morning when I got out of the shower...and I was perfectly happy (after commandeering an extra duvet for my bed, attacking the walls and windows with bleach solution and a toothbrush, and getting the landlord to fix the broken floorboard--he used the side of an old beer crate!).  After hearing this, all the past JETs tell me they think I'll do just fine.

Sunday, 26 June 2016

So it begins...

I love Japan, and like any good love story this one starts with a chance encounter...of sorts.

While Japan had always been on my traveler's radar, it wasn't yet on the horizon back in 2013. Back then I'd recently moved back to New Zealand from Australia and had some vague notions of the UK being my next foreign port of call.

Meanwhile Josie, a school friend of mine was already long involved in something called the Japanese Exchange and Teaching (JET) Program over in Japan. She'd gone over there to become an Assistant Language Teacher (ALT) of English, which had come as no surprise to any of us as Josie had been proficient in Japanese since high school and gone on to study it at university. Josie had come back for a visit and we'd caught up over a coffee in Dunedin. She told me lots of crazy things about life in Japan and then she said something that stuck in my mind: something along the lines of "I'm coming home at the end of the next school year so if you want to come and visit you had better do it soon". Visit Josie in Japan? Hells yes!

It is one of my life-rules-to-live-by that if someone based in a foreign country invites you to visit, if at all possible, you do! Experiencing a country through the eyes of a local (or even a pseudo-local) is always more engaging than simply being a tourist. In short, it is an opportunity not to be missed. Unfortunately, as with anything in life, there's only so much travel time and money will allow. As much as I love catching up with any and all of my friends anywhere, anytime, by virtue of my own track record I have to own to the fact that their stock is definitely higher if they're based in a country I've never been to before, and higher still if they don't intend to stay there very long (I like to think I'll get around to visiting everyone eventually so it only makes sense to visit those with a definite deadline first right?). I'll freely admit that this is a very selfish approach, but its one everyone seems to adopt so I don't feel so bad.

It wasn't long after that inspiring chat with Josie that our mutual friend Kyla and I began making plans. In March 2014 we flew out to spend two weeks with Josie in Japan.

Our trip started in Tokyo. As you may imagine this was an onslaught on the senses at first, with the sheer number of people, the beautiful but to my western eyes unusual architecture of the temples, shrines and Imperial Palace, and of course the prevalence of non-western food (yay!). I reveled in it, and these things were the attraction of Tokyo for me, because underneath all of that, Tokyo is a modern city and functions much the same as most other modern cities all over the world. While parts of it are distinctly Japanese (such as the Meiji Shrine and the Harajuku District--starkly contrasting Japanese experiences!), it has city blocks lined with office buildings which feel the same as parts of big cities in the western world. Fortunately, just as it was starting to feel familiar, we jumped on the shinkansen [bullet train] to go and explore more of Japan.

In the course of two weeks we took in Kyoto (the heartland of Japanese traditional culture, with more castles, temples and shrines than its possible to see in one visit), Nara (where sacred deer roam freely around the grounds of Todai-ji, home of the largest wooden building in the world), Hiroshima (a thriving city rebuilt around the solemn relic of Genbaku Domu [the A-Bomb Dome]), Itsukushima Island (home to the famous Miyajima Shinto Shrine and its iconic "floating" torii gate), Fukuoka (Josie's home base), Nagasaki (another A-bomb decimated but now thriving city with curious historic western influences preserved or rebuilt, including Deijima, the old Dutch merchant trading hub), Beppu (a town full of multi-coloured hotsprings, and pachenko (gambling) parlours), and Kagoshima (where I got to see Mt Sakurajima and my first volcanic eruption!).

Here's a look at some of my favourite memories from Japan...

W3.CSS
Tokyo
Meiji Shrine torii gate, Tokyo
Tokyo by night
Kyoto
Entrance to Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto
Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto
Reflective garden at Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto
The famous rock garden at Ryoanji
Kinkaku-ji Temple, Kyoto
Ginkaku-ji Temple, Kyoto
Fushimi Inari Shrine torii gate walkway, Kyoto
Tranquil gardens at Nanzen-ji
Nijo Castle Gate, Kyoto
Deer roam the streets in Nara
Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall), Todai-ji Temple, Nara
Genbaku Domu (A-Bomb Dome), Hiroshima
Hiroshima
Going out for okonomiyaki!
The "floating" torii gate, Itsukushima Shrine
Nagasaki
Cosplay at Glover Garden, Nagasaki
Macaques at Takasakiyama, Beppu
Chinoike-jigoku hot spring, Beppu
Mt Sakurajima overlooks Kagoshima City
Public dolphin show, Kagoshima
Sakurajima puts on a show!
Sakura (cherry blossoms) in Fukuoka

All in all (apart from a truly monumental bout of food poisoning) it was a phenomenal trip and even as I am writing this I feel the need to thank Josie once again for organising it! Is it any wonder I fell so in love with Japan and vowed to go back? But I don't want to go back to do the same trip again. As phenomenal as the trip was, by virtue of our short time there and the fact that the trip was a holiday, I felt that I was missing something. I don't think any westerner could visit Japan without feeling like they were only scratching the surface. There was obviously so much more to see, and more importantly to experience and understand. So much just washed over me during my short time there, particularly as I don't speak or read a word of Japanese. Josie to her credit did a fine job of translating, but understandably got sick of all my questions. The solution then seemed to me to return one day myself, spend the time, learn the language and get to know the place and its people. The more I listened to Josie talk about life as a JET the less scary and alien it seemed, and almost by the time I'd got home I'd resolved to apply to the JET program as soon as I was able. Those who know me will understand the irony of this; having vowed my entire life not to become a teacher (like almost everyone else in my family), here I was contemplating going to teach (well, assist-teach) English in Japan. But the more I thought about it the more I thought I could do it, and the more I wanted to do it.

So, enough contemplating! In October 2015 I submitted my application to become a JET...shortly before setting out on Te Araroa and walking the length of New Zealand (for an account of this adventure see my blog Two Feet And A Heartbeat). While hiking through the central North Island I received word I'd got through to the interview stage and in January (while on a Christmas break from the trail) I flew up to Wellington to have an interview at the Japanese Embassy. It was a little nerve racking as I've previously only had one other job interview, but I'd done my homework and I felt well prepared. I got a little nervous once again as I was sitting waiting for the interview and chatting to other applicants. Most of them seemed to have studied Japanese since school. I had to remind myself that speaking Japanese was not a pre-requisite for JET. Unlike most of the others present I'd actually been to Japan and knew I liked it, and besides, I've got plenty of other things to offer...I had about six years on most of the other applicants around me for a start. That additional life experience has got to count for something, right?

My hiking buddy Brandon and I at the end of our 3000km trek from Cape Reinga to Bluff
Apparently it does. Back on trail I emerged out of the wilderness at Arthur's Pass to find urgent messages saying I'd been accepted for JET, but needed to get medical clearance. One whirlwind trip back to Dunedin later I'd sent off the required medical certificate and cleared chest x-ray. I had done it. I was in! I was going to go back to Japan, this time to live and work there for a minimum of 12 months. I was stoked, about going to Japan, about the challenges ahead, about learning how to be a good teacher, and about the fact that for the first time in my life I'll have a contract guaranteeing work for more than a few weeks at a time! Unreal!

So here I am, enjoying a couple of months down time between the end of my last adventure and the start of my next one. After attending the JET Q&A session in Wellington from June 10-11th (more on that in another post) myself and the other JETS received our E-tickets. Come July 31st we'll be boarding the plane, bound for our new lives in Japan!